Dear Friends...In addition to daily cleansing routines, the use of masks can improve the appearance of your skin as well as correct prior damage. Masks are either warm or cold and come in powder, paste or gel forms. After the mask is removed your skin should feel clean, stimulated, and refreshed.
Masks have been used since ancient times and have been made from clay, mud, sour milk, fruit and wine as well as other icky ingredients like dead insect or animal parts. Today’s commercially prepared masks contain elements of those natural ingredients as well as artificial chemicals.
Masks are used for a variety of purposes depending on the client’s skin needs. Masks can provide deep moisturizing, remove excess oil, or thin the dead cell layer of our skin. Additionally, masks can temporarily tighten loose skin, calm inflamed skin, or loosen blackheads for manual removal.
The type of mask needed is based entirely on the type of skin your have the effect you hope to achieve. If your skin is dry then you’ll want to use something that’s moisturizing without being greasy. If your skin is oily, you’ll want to use a mask designed to dry up excess oil. If your skin is sensitive to chemicals, you’ll want to use something that not only moisturizes but does so with gentle ingredients.
Homemade masks are effective and free of artificial chemicals whose names can’t be pronounced let alone understood. In addition, homemade masks are easy to prepare and, since they are made from ingredients available at your grocery store’s produce section, they are way less expensive than the commercial products. Some would argue that any produce used should be organic and I think that it’s the best option. However, any fresh produce will work too.
Masks should always be applied to a clean face and never worn for longer than 10 to 15 minutes. The mask should be removed with warm water followed by toner and moisturizer. Masking should be done on a weekly basis.
Next time I’ll give you some recipes for homemade masks that are easy to make, inexpensive and will improve your skin’s appearance, too!
Hugs,
Carolyn
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Saturday, June 20, 2009
MORE SUNSCREEN RECOMMENDATIONS
Here are more recommendation for sun protection products. I promise these will be the last for awhile since you are probably overloaded with information at this point.
Oxybenzonene is an active ingredient used in many sunscreens manufactured in the United States and is a moderately effective sun blocker. However, this ingredient reacts with sunlight to form allergenic and possibly carcinogenic chemicals making it as dangerous, or possibly more dangerous, than using nothing at all.
Oxybenzone is popular because it rubs in well versus zinc, for example, but for safety a sunscreen with either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as the active ingredient is recommended instead.
Here are more product recommendations I found on a site called “GoodGuide”. Not only do they include customer reviews but the products are also rated by Good Guide for ecological impact and healthfulness, if those things are important to you.
Good Guide is a great site to consult for all ‘green’ product ratings, especially household cleaners.
You can view the sun protection reviews yourself at goodguide.com. Following are those I thought were the best per price, SPF rating and customer reviews.
Ø Aveeno Baby Sunblock Lotion…SPF 55…costs about $12.99 and received 5 customer rating stars.
Ø Badger…SPF 30…costs about $11.99 and received 4 customer rating stars
Ø CA Baby Sunblock Stick No Fragrance…SPF of 30+ costs about $15 and received a 4-star rating from users
Ø Coppertone Sport Continuous Spray…SPF 30…costs about $20.84 and has a 4.5 star rating
Ø Kiss My Face 100% Paraben-Free Sunscreen…SPF 30… costs about $10.99 and received 3.5 customer rating stars.
Ø Neutrogena Sunblock Age Shield Face…SPF 70…costs about $12.49 with a 5 star rating from users.
Ø Solar Sense Face Protection…SPF of 45, costs about $36.42 for a 12 pack and received 5 rating stars.
Yours in Healthy Skin…
Hugs,
Carolyn E. Johnson
Oxybenzonene is an active ingredient used in many sunscreens manufactured in the United States and is a moderately effective sun blocker. However, this ingredient reacts with sunlight to form allergenic and possibly carcinogenic chemicals making it as dangerous, or possibly more dangerous, than using nothing at all.
Oxybenzone is popular because it rubs in well versus zinc, for example, but for safety a sunscreen with either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as the active ingredient is recommended instead.
Here are more product recommendations I found on a site called “GoodGuide”. Not only do they include customer reviews but the products are also rated by Good Guide for ecological impact and healthfulness, if those things are important to you.
Good Guide is a great site to consult for all ‘green’ product ratings, especially household cleaners.
You can view the sun protection reviews yourself at goodguide.com. Following are those I thought were the best per price, SPF rating and customer reviews.
Ø Aveeno Baby Sunblock Lotion…SPF 55…costs about $12.99 and received 5 customer rating stars.
Ø Badger…SPF 30…costs about $11.99 and received 4 customer rating stars
Ø CA Baby Sunblock Stick No Fragrance…SPF of 30+ costs about $15 and received a 4-star rating from users
Ø Coppertone Sport Continuous Spray…SPF 30…costs about $20.84 and has a 4.5 star rating
Ø Kiss My Face 100% Paraben-Free Sunscreen…SPF 30… costs about $10.99 and received 3.5 customer rating stars.
Ø Neutrogena Sunblock Age Shield Face…SPF 70…costs about $12.49 with a 5 star rating from users.
Ø Solar Sense Face Protection…SPF of 45, costs about $36.42 for a 12 pack and received 5 rating stars.
Yours in Healthy Skin…
Hugs,
Carolyn E. Johnson
Monday, June 15, 2009
SUNSCREEN RECOMMENDATIONS
As a practicing esthetician I’ve heard a lot of excuses for not using sunscreen. Following is a list of sun protection products recommended in a recent article of PREVENTION Magazine.
I have acne and sunscreen causes breakouts…..Try using a non-oily product like Coppertone Nutrashield Faces 70+ about $10.50 at drugstores. It’s formulated so it does not clog pores
I am unable to reapply over makeup…..Try using a tinted mineral sunscreen like BareMinerals SPF 30, which casts about $28 at their website. It’s ideal for touchups throughout day and has an added benefit of providing luminosity to your makeup.
I have sensitive skin and sunscreen is irritating. Try using sun block instead since titanium oxide or zinc oxide rarely upset sensitive skin and less likely to aggravate redness from Rosacea.
I perspire while exercising outdoors. Try using sunscreen labeled as very water resistant. Banana Boat UltraMist Sport Performance Spray SPF 85 costs about $10.50 at drugstores is a good product. It sprays on clear, doesn’t need to be rubbed in and has a nozzle that works from any angle.
Sunscreen leaves my face shiny. Try using La Roches-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen for Face…about $27.50 at drugstores…absorbs quickly and dries to matte finish. Since it’s also moisturizing, you can skip that step of your morning cleansing routine
I already have lots of sun damage so why should I start using protection now. Daily sunscreen use reduces damage and allows skin to repair itself. You can protect your skin and boost its natural repair abilities with NIA 24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30. It contains Pro-Niacin a form of Vit B3 that helps improve skin hydration and minimizes dark spots.
While I have not tried any of the above, I trust the recommendations of this magazine.
I have used the line of sunscreen products sold by Dermalogica with good results. More important my clients report being happy, too. Dermalogica has about 12 different sun protection products including wipes for use while traveling and a spray that dries on contact. In addition, these products do not have an annoying odor. While they cost more than something available at a drugstore. They are well tested and formulated. You can find Dermalogica products at your local spa or beauty salon.
I have acne and sunscreen causes breakouts…..Try using a non-oily product like Coppertone Nutrashield Faces 70+ about $10.50 at drugstores. It’s formulated so it does not clog pores
I am unable to reapply over makeup…..Try using a tinted mineral sunscreen like BareMinerals SPF 30, which casts about $28 at their website. It’s ideal for touchups throughout day and has an added benefit of providing luminosity to your makeup.
I have sensitive skin and sunscreen is irritating. Try using sun block instead since titanium oxide or zinc oxide rarely upset sensitive skin and less likely to aggravate redness from Rosacea.
I perspire while exercising outdoors. Try using sunscreen labeled as very water resistant. Banana Boat UltraMist Sport Performance Spray SPF 85 costs about $10.50 at drugstores is a good product. It sprays on clear, doesn’t need to be rubbed in and has a nozzle that works from any angle.
Sunscreen leaves my face shiny. Try using La Roches-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen for Face…about $27.50 at drugstores…absorbs quickly and dries to matte finish. Since it’s also moisturizing, you can skip that step of your morning cleansing routine
I already have lots of sun damage so why should I start using protection now. Daily sunscreen use reduces damage and allows skin to repair itself. You can protect your skin and boost its natural repair abilities with NIA 24 Sun Damage Prevention 100% Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30. It contains Pro-Niacin a form of Vit B3 that helps improve skin hydration and minimizes dark spots.
While I have not tried any of the above, I trust the recommendations of this magazine.
I have used the line of sunscreen products sold by Dermalogica with good results. More important my clients report being happy, too. Dermalogica has about 12 different sun protection products including wipes for use while traveling and a spray that dries on contact. In addition, these products do not have an annoying odor. While they cost more than something available at a drugstore. They are well tested and formulated. You can find Dermalogica products at your local spa or beauty salon.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
UVB Light Damage
There are two types of UV light: UVA and UVB. I discussed UVA damage in a previous post. The second type, UVB, is the most damaging because it penetrates to the deepest layer of our skin where new cells are generated creating mutations that may lead to skin cancer. Repeated, extended UVB exposure also leads to sagging and premature aging of our skin.
Vertical spiral threads of protein called elastin hold all 8 layers of our skin together. As their name suggests they are stretchy and allow our skin to snap back into shape after pulling. They work like the rubberized threads in elastic waistbands. Just as repeated heating in dryers weakens the rubberized bands, elastin is weakened and loses its snap when exposed repeatedly to UVB rays.
Unfortunately, there aren’t products that can reverse UVB damage currently. The only thing we can do is prevent damage through the use of good quality sunscreens or sun blocks.
Products that filter both UVA and UVB rays provide basic protection. These products may be labeled as ‘broad spectrum’. Additionally, they should have a SPF rating of at least 30.
The highest level of protection is a reflective sun block containing either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that reflects all UV rays. However, it’s important to remember that if you’re wearing sun block it will reflect any type of light, either natural or artificial. For this reason, sun blocks will reflect the light of a photoflash and make you appear ghostly in photos.
An important fact about any UV protection is that is has to be applied generously and daily to be effective. Use at least a teaspoon on your face. Also sunscreens have to be reapplied every two hours since UV light degrades the protective ingredients into harmful ones that will actually accelerate UV damage. Nice twist, eh?
Since we receive the bulk of our sun damage before the age of 18 most of us already have UVB damage that will result in sagging and the early aging of our skin. This fact sounds like it’s useless to use any sun protection at this stage of the game. Let me strongly urge you to resist that idea.
Although sun protection will not reverse the damage we already have, it will prevent further damage. As we age, UV damage compounds at a faster rate…like coasting downhill on a bike. So that any damage comes more apparent at a faster rate.
In my next post, I’ll recommend products for UV protection.
Hugs, Carolyn
Vertical spiral threads of protein called elastin hold all 8 layers of our skin together. As their name suggests they are stretchy and allow our skin to snap back into shape after pulling. They work like the rubberized threads in elastic waistbands. Just as repeated heating in dryers weakens the rubberized bands, elastin is weakened and loses its snap when exposed repeatedly to UVB rays.
Unfortunately, there aren’t products that can reverse UVB damage currently. The only thing we can do is prevent damage through the use of good quality sunscreens or sun blocks.
Products that filter both UVA and UVB rays provide basic protection. These products may be labeled as ‘broad spectrum’. Additionally, they should have a SPF rating of at least 30.
The highest level of protection is a reflective sun block containing either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that reflects all UV rays. However, it’s important to remember that if you’re wearing sun block it will reflect any type of light, either natural or artificial. For this reason, sun blocks will reflect the light of a photoflash and make you appear ghostly in photos.
An important fact about any UV protection is that is has to be applied generously and daily to be effective. Use at least a teaspoon on your face. Also sunscreens have to be reapplied every two hours since UV light degrades the protective ingredients into harmful ones that will actually accelerate UV damage. Nice twist, eh?
Since we receive the bulk of our sun damage before the age of 18 most of us already have UVB damage that will result in sagging and the early aging of our skin. This fact sounds like it’s useless to use any sun protection at this stage of the game. Let me strongly urge you to resist that idea.
Although sun protection will not reverse the damage we already have, it will prevent further damage. As we age, UV damage compounds at a faster rate…like coasting downhill on a bike. So that any damage comes more apparent at a faster rate.
In my next post, I’ll recommend products for UV protection.
Hugs, Carolyn
Sunday, May 31, 2009
IS TANNING REALLY SO BAD?
It’s not sunlight that’s so bad for our skin but the UV rays in daylight. Notice I wrote ‘daylight’ not ‘sunlight’. This principle explains how you can get a sunburn on an overcast day. Therefore, protective products should really be called daylight screen.
There are two types of UV light: UVA and UVB. UVA light changes the pigment cells in our skin. These cells are responsible for the ‘tan’ we all strive for.
While UVA light produces tanning, it also permanently damages our pigment cells. The gorgeous tan of today is the creator of age spots in our middle years. Damaged pigment cells continue to lounge around in the middle skin layers until, when activated by hormonal changes like menopause, they become permanently dark. These changes can also occur during pregnancy.
Basic protection is provided by products that filter both UVA and UVB rays. These products may be labeled as ‘broad spectrum’. Additionally, they should have a SPF rating of at least 30.
The highest level of protection is a reflective sunblock containing either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that reflects all light, either natural or artificial. For this reason, sun blocks will reflect the light of a photoflash and make you appear ghostly.
An important fact about any UV protection is that is has to be applied generously and daily to be effective. Use at least a teaspoon on your face. Also sunscreens have to be reapplied every two hours since UV light degrades the protective ingredients into harmful ones that will actually accelerate UV damage. Nice twist, eh?
Since we receive the bulk of our sun damage before the age of 18 most of us are destined to produce ‘age spots’ during our middle years. While this sounds like it’s useless to use any sun protection at this stage of the game. Let me strongly urge you to resist that idea.
Although sun protection will not reverse the damage we already have, it will prevent further damage. As we age, UV damage compounds at a faster rate…like coasting downhill on a bike. So that any damage comes more apparent at a faster rate.
Next time I’ll discuss damage caused by the other UV light...UVB.
Hugs,
Carolyn
There are two types of UV light: UVA and UVB. UVA light changes the pigment cells in our skin. These cells are responsible for the ‘tan’ we all strive for.
While UVA light produces tanning, it also permanently damages our pigment cells. The gorgeous tan of today is the creator of age spots in our middle years. Damaged pigment cells continue to lounge around in the middle skin layers until, when activated by hormonal changes like menopause, they become permanently dark. These changes can also occur during pregnancy.
Basic protection is provided by products that filter both UVA and UVB rays. These products may be labeled as ‘broad spectrum’. Additionally, they should have a SPF rating of at least 30.
The highest level of protection is a reflective sunblock containing either titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that reflects all light, either natural or artificial. For this reason, sun blocks will reflect the light of a photoflash and make you appear ghostly.
An important fact about any UV protection is that is has to be applied generously and daily to be effective. Use at least a teaspoon on your face. Also sunscreens have to be reapplied every two hours since UV light degrades the protective ingredients into harmful ones that will actually accelerate UV damage. Nice twist, eh?
Since we receive the bulk of our sun damage before the age of 18 most of us are destined to produce ‘age spots’ during our middle years. While this sounds like it’s useless to use any sun protection at this stage of the game. Let me strongly urge you to resist that idea.
Although sun protection will not reverse the damage we already have, it will prevent further damage. As we age, UV damage compounds at a faster rate…like coasting downhill on a bike. So that any damage comes more apparent at a faster rate.
Next time I’ll discuss damage caused by the other UV light...UVB.
Hugs,
Carolyn
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Dear Friend,
Today I’d like to discuss the use of special brushes for exfoliation either with or without a scrub. These brushes are available in either manual or electric versions. But, as usual, there are warnings you need to know about before using/purchasing a facial brush.
First, the bristle ends on inexpensive brushes have sharp edges that can cause damage when they ‘snag’ the pore opening leaving a slight tear in your skin. Remember that any cut, abrasion, or tear in the skin provides an opening for bacteria to set up housekeeping. Bacterial growth can lead to infection and possible scarring, in the most severe cases. In this case, spending a little more money will protect your skin from damage. However, it's very important to read the product label. Don’t buy any brush, no matter how expensive, unless the product promises that the bristles have no sharp edges.
Secondly, we tend to feel that if a little scrubbing is good, more will be better. Nothing could be further from the truth. These bristles tend to be super efficient ‘scrubbers’ just like the appliances sold for cleaning floors! It is too easy to over exfoliate when using them. Over exfoliation results in raw skin, hastens premature aging, and leave our skin vulnerable to bacteria.
There are several new electric exfoliators available in the $25 range. If you invest in one of these inexpensive versions, please, please, please only use the sponge head attachment with a good scrub and avoid the creams that usually come with the appliance. Read the scrub label closely. These creams usually contain aluminum crystals. Aluminum crystals aren’t suitable for scrub use. Only a skin care professional, trained to assess skin types, can determine if your skin will tolerate such vigorous abuse. If you read the previous post about scrubs, you are aware of the dangers of using scrubs that contain nutshells. Imagine how sharp and damaging aluminum crystals are to your skin.
You may be aware that aluminum crystals are often used during microdermabrasion treatments and you’d be correct. However, they are not used during the first treatment, or at least they shouldn’t be. Softer crystals are used early in a series of treatments to gradually prepare the skin for more aggressive exfoliation as the series progresses. Additionally, and this is very important, crystals are blown against the skin during microdermabrasion not rubbed repeatedly over the surface of the skin in a scrubbing action.
WARNING!!! Remember it is much better to exfoliate a little one to three times a week than a lot once a week. Start by using your exfoliator once a week to see how your skin reacts. If there is no adverse reaction, add a second treatment each week. Never, never, never exceed 3 times per week. Your skin will not be able to replenish its protective layer fast enough between treatments.
My next post will cover an electric exfoliator I highly recommend based on my personal and professional use.
Hugs,
Carolyn Johnson
Today I’d like to discuss the use of special brushes for exfoliation either with or without a scrub. These brushes are available in either manual or electric versions. But, as usual, there are warnings you need to know about before using/purchasing a facial brush.
First, the bristle ends on inexpensive brushes have sharp edges that can cause damage when they ‘snag’ the pore opening leaving a slight tear in your skin. Remember that any cut, abrasion, or tear in the skin provides an opening for bacteria to set up housekeeping. Bacterial growth can lead to infection and possible scarring, in the most severe cases. In this case, spending a little more money will protect your skin from damage. However, it's very important to read the product label. Don’t buy any brush, no matter how expensive, unless the product promises that the bristles have no sharp edges.
Secondly, we tend to feel that if a little scrubbing is good, more will be better. Nothing could be further from the truth. These bristles tend to be super efficient ‘scrubbers’ just like the appliances sold for cleaning floors! It is too easy to over exfoliate when using them. Over exfoliation results in raw skin, hastens premature aging, and leave our skin vulnerable to bacteria.
There are several new electric exfoliators available in the $25 range. If you invest in one of these inexpensive versions, please, please, please only use the sponge head attachment with a good scrub and avoid the creams that usually come with the appliance. Read the scrub label closely. These creams usually contain aluminum crystals. Aluminum crystals aren’t suitable for scrub use. Only a skin care professional, trained to assess skin types, can determine if your skin will tolerate such vigorous abuse. If you read the previous post about scrubs, you are aware of the dangers of using scrubs that contain nutshells. Imagine how sharp and damaging aluminum crystals are to your skin.
You may be aware that aluminum crystals are often used during microdermabrasion treatments and you’d be correct. However, they are not used during the first treatment, or at least they shouldn’t be. Softer crystals are used early in a series of treatments to gradually prepare the skin for more aggressive exfoliation as the series progresses. Additionally, and this is very important, crystals are blown against the skin during microdermabrasion not rubbed repeatedly over the surface of the skin in a scrubbing action.
WARNING!!! Remember it is much better to exfoliate a little one to three times a week than a lot once a week. Start by using your exfoliator once a week to see how your skin reacts. If there is no adverse reaction, add a second treatment each week. Never, never, never exceed 3 times per week. Your skin will not be able to replenish its protective layer fast enough between treatments.
My next post will cover an electric exfoliator I highly recommend based on my personal and professional use.
Hugs,
Carolyn Johnson
Saturday, May 16, 2009
TONER SECRETS - PART I
Dear Friend…
Do you currently use a toner after cleansing your face? Think toner is a gimmick concocted by cosmetic companies to get more of your hard earned dollars? I felt the same way until I learned the science behind using toner.
Take a step back to high school science class for a minute. Remember the pH scale? It determines if a substance is either alkaline, like lye, or acidic like vinegar. Our skin registers at approximately 5.5 on a scale from 0 to 7 pH so it’s happiest, and healthiest, in a slightly acidic environment.
Good cleaners are more alkaline than our skin for two reasons. When lower than 5.5 pH:
1) Cleansers relax our skin slightly and opens our pores for more thorough cleansing, and
2) Cleansers loosen the accumulated dead skin cell layer on the surface our face so it can be gradually washed away.
Following a second cleanse, your skin’s pH is way below its normal range. This is why your skin feels and looks tight and dry. Using toner immediately after cleansing restores the acid level your skin craves. If left on its own, it will take 10 to 12 hours for your skin to achieve its correct acid level again. During that time, your skin is struggling to perform is normal functions and since the acid in our skin is our first line of defense against the zillions of invisible airborne bacteria that land on it constantly, those bacteria are able to thrive and have a party there!
Unfortunately, commercial products don’t reveal their pH reading on labels. You can be sure that any of the mid- to higher priced products are pH balanced. But I’m not sure about products available at drug or discount stores. The only way to be sure of the acidity of any skin care product is to test them with inexpensive pH strips found at aquarium or pool suppliers.
Since you may run into a problem if you’re found dipping pH strips into products at your local drug store, I’ll include a recipe for a natural and inexpensive toner you can make in a few minutes while spending less than a dollar for the ingredients. This toner provides all the ‘good’ effects of a toner as described above.
Hugs,
Carolyn
Do you currently use a toner after cleansing your face? Think toner is a gimmick concocted by cosmetic companies to get more of your hard earned dollars? I felt the same way until I learned the science behind using toner.
Take a step back to high school science class for a minute. Remember the pH scale? It determines if a substance is either alkaline, like lye, or acidic like vinegar. Our skin registers at approximately 5.5 on a scale from 0 to 7 pH so it’s happiest, and healthiest, in a slightly acidic environment.
Good cleaners are more alkaline than our skin for two reasons. When lower than 5.5 pH:
1) Cleansers relax our skin slightly and opens our pores for more thorough cleansing, and
2) Cleansers loosen the accumulated dead skin cell layer on the surface our face so it can be gradually washed away.
Following a second cleanse, your skin’s pH is way below its normal range. This is why your skin feels and looks tight and dry. Using toner immediately after cleansing restores the acid level your skin craves. If left on its own, it will take 10 to 12 hours for your skin to achieve its correct acid level again. During that time, your skin is struggling to perform is normal functions and since the acid in our skin is our first line of defense against the zillions of invisible airborne bacteria that land on it constantly, those bacteria are able to thrive and have a party there!
Unfortunately, commercial products don’t reveal their pH reading on labels. You can be sure that any of the mid- to higher priced products are pH balanced. But I’m not sure about products available at drug or discount stores. The only way to be sure of the acidity of any skin care product is to test them with inexpensive pH strips found at aquarium or pool suppliers.
Since you may run into a problem if you’re found dipping pH strips into products at your local drug store, I’ll include a recipe for a natural and inexpensive toner you can make in a few minutes while spending less than a dollar for the ingredients. This toner provides all the ‘good’ effects of a toner as described above.
Hugs,
Carolyn
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